
Here's what I've been thinking. Food culture over the last few years has changed, so that it is both aspirational and a high status signifier.
Just like a Rolex says "I have a great deal of money", cooking (in a SWPL kind of culture anyway) has come to say: "I'm sophisticated, educated, and worldly in my taste, and yet I'm also earthy and sensual and generous. The kitchen is the warm beating heart of my home. Come. Sit. Eat. Share. Close your eyes and you might be in Tuscany, or Hong Kong, or one of the nicer parts of Louisiana."
Note that I don't think these are bad things at all. But the aspirational element is key to most of the female cooks on TV, whether it's sensual, beautiful, tragic Nigella in her elegant London kitchen, or Giada entertaining family-style on the terrace. None of that is what chirpy Rachael Ray - pudgy, proley, and entirely without pretension - is about. She's about putting food on the table - delicious, fast, easy food that anyone can make, with ingredients from any supermarket.

















